Tuesday, February 16, 2016

French Food

With this much bread and cheese, I wouldn’t be surprised if France invented grilled cheese.

The stereotypical image of a French person holding a baguette whilst riding a bicycle surprisingly holds very true. Every morning on the bus to campus I see people ride their bikes to one of the hundreds of patisseries or boulangeries (at times 5-10 on one street alone, rivaling Dunkin' Donuts in Boston) to get their fresh bread. Others, like my host mom will buy a couple loaves of bread and freeze them to have throughout the week. Bread is a dietary staple, almost more than water, and eaten at every meal of the day.

Just as important is cheese. In addition to the multitudes of curd products across the country, each region of France has its own specialty. In Normandy, the four main local cheeses are camembert, livarot, pont l’évêque, and neufchâtel. It's kind of hard to explain what each of them tastes like, because there is nothing to compare them to in the U.S. The FDA bans the sale of unpasteurized milk, leaving the states lacking bit with cheese gastronomy. I’ve tried describing cheeses as either kind-of-brie-or-cheddar-like, but with no success. At dinner when I tried describing a cheese that resembled something close to brie, my host mom quickly corrected my error and bought a 'true' brie cheese the next day to compare. I guess I committed some sort of French gastronomy sin.

Normandy cheeses and Cidre, part of a traditional normandy meal my host mom made

There are so many types of other French cuisine and recipes, that it would be exhaustive to explain them all.  My top favorites are below, and when I come home from class it’s hard not to pick up one treat when you smell them from at least thirty different patisseries.
  • French Macaroons (raspberry, chocolate nutella, have even seen lavender and rose flavored)
  • Chocolate Pain (really a chocolate croissant, but was promptly corrected after calling it that once)
  • Croissants
  • Crêpes (two different flours are used for savory and sweet crêpes)
  • Tarte aux pommes
  • Any fresh bread in general

French sweets, pieces of art 

But the most important characteristic of French cuisine and culture is that meals are meant to be enjoyed.  Food is not just to sustain and hold you over with a granola bar on the way to class or during a quick 30-minute meal. They are made to be beautiful and lasting.  My favorite part of the day is dinner with my host mom. We set the table, toast the bread, and enjoy a full balanced dinner while talking about our day.  For dessert, she cuts fruit and arranges them thoughtfully on a plate.  Meals don’t have to be fancy or last for hours, but it’s the idea that eating is a time for socializing and appreciating food and family.



Standard Meals in a Day

7-9am Breakfast: 
Toast and yogurt with jam. Sometimes fruit. A “cup” of green tea. (Cups for tea and breakfast are actually more like bowls, no handles. Great if you love tea or coffee)

12-1pm Lunch: 
Usually at the University. The government subsidizes student meals at universities, for € 3.25 you can buy a side, huge main plate and dessert. Bread and water are free.

*4-5pm Snack: 
So its not usual that people snack here.  If you are hungry it means that the meals you had were actually not enough.  But, given that it's France and I pass several patisseries on my way back home, it's hard not to pick up a small croissant or macaroon.  A cup of coffee or tea is common around this time or a little earlier.

7pm Dinner:  Meat/Chicken with a vegetable cooked on the stove. Usually the veggie has a little cream. Bread. For dessert, apples with small butter cookies or fruit salad.

9-10pm: Herbal tea with my host mom

*Tips I have learned*
Bread and une carafe d’eau (water pitcher) is always free at restaurants. Also, asking the waiter to split the bill is highly not recommended, it’s a bit of a faux pas.  Talking about money can be seen as - pun intended- distasteful  


Life in Caen

I have been in Caen for almost a month, and I don’t think I ever want to leave.  Surprisingly with the exception of peanut butter and country music, I don’t really feel homesick. (Shout out to mom and dad who are probably the only people read this, still love you all)

For those who are interested about Caen, Normandy and why it’s so hard to leave, this is what I get to see everyday when I go to class:

View of St Pierre circa 13th century, from Chateau de Caen 



Chateau de Caen, built in 1060 by William the Conqueror

Church ruins, never rebuilt after WWII



Despite almost being completely destroyed after WWII, Caen still holds a lot of history in its buildings and monuments, some dating back as far as the 11th century. The city was largely rebuilt to still resemble what it used to be before the war, with a traditional Normandy style. The main road in Caen for example, St. Pierre has many modern shops and restaurants but still showcases older relics from its rich past.

The most striking is how normal this is to many people. Just across from a French bakery that I go to are the two oldest wooden buildings in Caen.  As if my accent and backpack didn’t scream American already, I stood there with my French macaroon for a good 20 minutes just staring at them amazement that by a miracle, was not destroyed 70 years ago.   

Circa 16th Century, photo:www.namericanlogcrafters.com

When I’m not completely geeking out with all the history here-WWII, Charlemagne, William the Conqueror-  I love to sit in a café and just people watch or do homework for a couple hours.  The Starbucks and Panera in my hometown don’t compare to the cafés here. For one, nobody rushes you- the French like to take their time with food (see other blog post).  Secondly, it's so interesting to see the different people, professors, students, and people walking the streets. The way of life is so much more relaxed, and enjoyable.  C’est la vie, translation: “what happens, happens” seems to be the motto. Although living this way does have its quirks.Worker strikes or closed shops on Mondays for example seem to happen with no rhyme or reason sometimes.

Favorite Café: Mémoranda 

Probably the better French phrase that my host mom comically likes to say is “La vie est belle”.  And after living in France for almost a month, I have to agree that life is certainly beautiful.